When the journey uphill seemed an uphill task, & when the destination was nowhere in sight, when the initial scenes looked commonplace & when the stench of horse dung became emetic, I wondered if I was wasting my time.
When stepping on rocky stones felt like walking a tightrope, I carped aloud at the government’s apathy, though I knew landslides were the culprits.
When my locks got entangled in tree trunks & each step forward pulled me 2 steps back, I regretted abandoning the idea of a helicopter ride.
When all I saw were boring human faces & stinking mule faeces, everything around me became exasperating! 👹
‘Did I come here to see dull humans & interact with them??’ Mountain climbing, which until then, I had upheld as something spiritual, suddenly became cumbersome & I just wanted to shoo everyone away.
We were told what to expect. ‘Valley of Flowers cannot be compared to flower valleys that exist in other parts of the globe. Yet, Nature lovers would love it.’
I suddenly remembered all the pending work I had left behind in Mumbai & chastised myself for being footloose & fancy-free when I should be finishing those.
A part of me pacified me, ‘No, this is indeed a well-deserved break, just enjoy!’
My indisposition was a blessing in disguise. After a day’s complete rest, I was raring to go. Despite a runny nose, I was gung-ho about surmounting all obstacles & reaching my destination.
Moreover, the words of our India Hikes guides kept ringing, ‘Your patience will definitely be rewarded’.
I had made it this far with Hari, the Pitthu guy. Now, there was no looking back!
Day-2 was a cakewalk. Despite having to traverse a challenging terrain with plunging gorges & narrow alleys, the spellbinding scenic beauty goaded me to inch further.😌
The tree-lined rocky pathways seemed like cheerleaders chivvying us to tread uncharted territories.
The woody scent of pine & fir permeated our tracks, as we sauntered through a tranquil pine forest.
Vying with the towering Pines were a few wildflowers, which refused to be dwarfed by their cohorts’ stature.
So enchanting were the woods that a lone bole sprang boldly & appeared as if posing for a selfie!🤩
Gone was the stench of mule poop. The atmosphere was suffused with the scent of aromatic Himalayan herbs & the fragrance of alpine blossoms.
The chirping of crickets, the distant cheeping of birds & our own footsteps were the only sounds. ☺️
A solitary Pine spread its boughs like a sheer drape, veiling a lofty hill.
Even as we got used to this rhythm, the sound of footfalls would suddenly be muffled by the susurration of a waterfall & the soft whispering of trees.
A glacier-fed cataract plunged downhill torrentially & yet the sight seemed like blessings sent to proliferate abundance.
Unmindful of the loftiness of the titanic mountains, the silver cascade gushed forth, paving its own way, crashing against behemothic boulders & shaping pebbles along its course.
The sparkling stream meandering around boulders, leapt in leaps & bounds, caprioling over river rocks in hubristic jubilance, sprinkling its icy-cold spray.
I eagerly filled my bottle with this snow-fed spring water & quaffed some. The naturally mineral-rich spring water seemed like an elixir!
Soon, the sharp inclines faded away & the pathways led to a lush glade sprinkled in rainbow colours! Wow!! We had finally arrived!😍I was on cloud nine!☺️
In Mother Nature’s cosy bosom, blossomed a million blooms, pirouetting to the rhythm of the soft breeze.
Famished & weary, we halted along with other wayfarers in a cavern to munch on some biscuits & drink from nature’s cup.
The zephyrous atmosphere spurred us to venture forth & relish the vibrant visual spread, without further ado.
Even as I poised to pose in their midst, the gale gathered force & the rolling fog whitewashed the alpine canvas!
Yet, like the crisp reflection from a squeaky-clean mirror, the Earth, with its fogginess wiped clean, reflected dew-drenched blossoms that glistened with renewed freshness.
The valley was awash with dollops of colours from Nature’s palette! 🥰Dandelions & Balsams, Geraniums & Anemones!
Countless blossoms twirled to the tune of the gentle breeze.
The misty mountain dew, the sweet scent of wildflowers, the aroma of wet earth, the buzzing of bumblebees, the flitting of butterflies, the sonorous birdsong!😍 Forest fairies at work??
Was I dreaming?? I was getting a bit tipsy!🥰
Where was I?? Surely in seventh heaven!🥰
A song that danced on my lips —Ye Kaun Chitrakaar Hai’ (Who is the master artist of this stupendous masterpiece??)
Grass blades rippled in delight at the caress of the pleasant breeze.😇
Himalayan Fleabane
Tiny violet Asters peeped out without a worry of being deemed.
They flourished even amidst the frondescence of fresh ferns & other itty-bitty foliage.
(Fading Himalayan Aster/ Aster albescens)
A sprig of dainty Himalayan daisies added a dash of delight.
They burgeoned through rocks & crevices, & flourished, forming a cheery backdrop.
As we inched farther, out of the blue, there appeared ruby red wildflowers, spreading a sudden royal & florid exuberance.🥰
(Bistorta affins-Himaayan Fleeceflower)
Even as I left behind the blushing bushes, a golden glow swept across the alpine meadow. A thousand golden blossoms rose to the occasion.
Softening the glow were powdery white flowers. Who was this invisible gardener who could blend colours in such perfect harmony??
Spread farther across was a sea of cottony flowers, dancing in glee to the cadence of the gale.
Himalayan knotweed
The lush mead appeared to be dusted with fine, powdery, fluffy white flowers.
(Selinum wallichianum or Milk Parsley)
Pink Himalayan Balsams blossomed at the foothills of a blue mountain, tickling the tourists pink🥰
Impatiens sulcata (Himalayan Balsams)
Golden dandelions vied for attention with violet balsams.
Wild, red berries sprouted from shrubs, spreading joy & lending an ineffable buoyancy.
Aroused by the romantic rendezvous on Earth, the whimsical mist made out with the mountains!
A wreath of mist festooned the hills in a warm hug & the mist-kissed Himalayas stood watching the grand, eye-catching spectacle below.😍
Garlanding the gargantuan mountains were a few exotic flowers, signifying the marriage of beauty & the beast.
Some flowers bloomed as itsy-bitsy blossoms, while others rose, defying the glass ceiling —like this pink beauty here.
Morina longifolia
Bhojpatra (Himalayan Birch)
Glimpsing at the slender Bhojpatra, I gathered why it was there. This celestial garden —Nandan Kaanan (Garden of Indra), I’m sure, was a romantic escapade for lovers of yore. Perhaps a forest nymph pining for her paramour would’ve penned a billet-doux on its bark!🤩
A few violet Hill Geraniums dotted the field, proudly proclaiming that they were no shrinking violets. 😉
Farther into the wide blue yonder, the emerald green turf was stippled with ink blue & snow-white blossoms.
(Blue Royle’s Larkspur)
(Inula orientalis)
While I oohed & aahed at the wondrous spectacle before me, there were a few who lay prone on the grassy sod; some who had dossed down on rocks, nonchalant to prying gazes.
With the felicific breeze lulling their senses, they stayed put with eyes shut, immersed in brown study & weaving pipe dreams.
Perhaps they had submitted to the sublime beauty surrounding them. The rock was no pillow, but it formed the bedrock —Mother Nature’s bosom, on which they reposed.
Some flowers had already blossomed, perhaps in the previous weeks. Note that the valley is in bloom from June to September, & the meadows keep changing colours every week.
Wondering why there’s no sign of the queen of the Himalayan flowers? Then let me take you on a detour to Hemkund Sahib through my husband’s lens. As mentioned in my previous post, I was under the weather, & hence I trekked to the Valley of Flowers on the day he & his team left for Hemkund.
It was a wet day & the freezing temperatures had them on tenterhooks. But, he was lucky enough to spot the most sought-after Himalayan Blue Poppy —the Queen of Himalayan Flowers, which I hadn’t!
Dawn dawned bleak, with leaden skies & heavy brume all the way.
The ascent was tougher & the paths narrower, he later mentioned.
However, the entire team was driven & keen to explore this trail also. Moreover, with fewer people on the foggy trail, they chose to be herded.
At some spots, the flowing water had frozen & remained as sleet on slopes.
Mountain weather can be mercurial; so, there were bluebird moments too, when they made hay while the Sun shone & clicked the rare sightings they found.
(Hemkund Sahib)
The holy Hemkund Sahib was a magical experience, he later exclaimed.
En route, were exotic wildflowers in vibrant colours, shapes & sizes.
(Impatiens scabrida/Rugged Yellow Balsam)
(Ligularia amplexiacaulis)
(Saxifraga parnassifolia or Bog Star)
As for Blue Poppies, they found a host of them!
These translucent baby blue blossoms bloomed with an innocent, virginal rapture.☺️
Not to be forgotten, were the Forget-Me Nots too.
The rare & revered Brahamakamal is usually a nocturnal bloom, which we weren’t lucky enough to spot. The above click was sent by Suman Singh Rawat —one of our trek leaders.
If Blue Poppy is the queen of the Himalayas, then Brahama Kamal is the king!
The melange of montane foliage fashioned in unique colours & patterns was another sight to behold.
And who doesn’t feel joyous at the sight of rain-drenched leaves?? Like cold raindrops on scalding skin, & a refreshing shower with fragrant herbs, this sight spelt Esperance, promise & cheer!😘
This much sought-after tree, with its huge hollow that can accommodate a human in a crouching position, held its own!
No, we didn’t detect any rare & colourful birds or butterflies, but here was a blue bottlefly feeding on flowers.
However, this Dark-breasted Rosefinch, which was being fed by pilgrims at Hemkund Sahib, met my husband’s gaze.
Despite the gelid weather, devotees dipped their feet in the algid waters, believing their spirits would be cleansed of transgressions.
Hemkund Sahib
We both had made it!! The fulfilment that comes with having accomplished a mission is beyond words. We were chuffed to bits!!🥰😍
Though not to Hemkund Sahib, I could make it to the Valley of Flowers, & that was enough for me.
Yes, we both missed a few historic & natural landmarks —the renowned Pushpavati riverbed & the grave of Joan Margaret Legge, who visited the valley in 1939 to study the native flora. A misstep along the slopes & she plunged to her death! Her tombstone was erected by her sister Dorothy, who later visited the site.
Unfortunately, we were strapped for time & Hari (the Pitthu carrier) mentioned it would take another 40 minutes to reach the site. It had begun to drizzle & I didn’t want to inconvenience him.
(With Hari-the Pitthu carrier) His contact no:+977 986-8055985
Despite the easy descent, I couldn’t help but drag my feet, for I was loath to leave this ethereal Shangri-la! Those were the moments my mind was filled with, ‘ I wish I had started earlier, I wish I were healthier, I wish…..’ the list was endless.
However, I soon replaced my rue with, ‘I shall get healthier & revisit & explore the places I missed’.
In a couple of hours, we returned to Gangharia & spent the evening at the information centre.
The place houses several depictions of the local flora & fauna.
A short audio-visual narrative details the discovery & history too.
Rest of the evening was spent poozling around for fridge magnets & other collectables from the shops lining the inns.
The next morning, post-breakfast, we returned to Kharchi, stayed overnight, & were transported back to Rishikesh, from where we 2 drove to Dehradun for a flight to Mumbai.
For Your Information
The Valley of Flowers, ensconced in the Byundar Valley Chamoli district of Uttarakhand, is a UNESCO World Heritage site located 4,000 meters above sea level.
Also known as Nandan Kaanan (Garden of Lord Indra) in the Skanda Purana.
Best time to visit- June-September. We heard the first week of August is when the valley is abloom in hues of reds & magentas, purples & blues!
It’s a moderately easy trek. However, check with your GP.
Helicopters operate between Govindghat & Ghangaria (the base camp), covering the arduous 10 km trek in 10 minutes! From Ghangaria, however, you must trek 3 kms to reach the Valley of Flowers & trust me, you’d relish it.
It’s wise to register with a trekking company & we did with India Hikes, as during an emergency you will need experts to monitor your condition & if the need arises, to bring in a doctor.
Trek leaders at India Hikes routinely check your pulse rate, oxygen saturation levels & BP. So, you will be in safe hands.
Yes, fitness is a must. Once you register with India Hikes or any other company, you will have to follow a rigorous fitness regimen to qualify for the trek.
Carry your vitamins, iron & calcium supplements.
There are no washroom facilities in the Valley of Flowers expanse. So, finish your ablutions much before.
Trekking gear is a must & we got ours from Decathlon, as advised by India Hikes.
Personal Views-If you’re over 50, aren’t confident, check the site’s ‘Seniors Only’ section. This category covers the trip at a more leisurely pace. Though it is for those over 58, they might consider younger citizens, too. This, I got to know from the girl with whom I shared my room.
We usually trot the globe in our heyday & defer such expeditions for a later date. It should be the other way round. Finish these in your 30s.
During my journey, I often wondered if flowers are Divinity’s offering to Earthlings! Perhaps Mother Earth is the numen’s temple, which the creator lights up every dawn, libates with seasonal showers, adorns with resplendent flowers & heals with euphonious birdsong.
This fascinating odyssey proved epiphanic, prompting me to believe that we mortals are the divinity whom the eternal demiurge honours! On our part, let’s be the godsend who nurture, conserve & preserve Mother Earth’s bounties, her assets. ☺️
I suggest a virtual walk-through at https://www.tra-verse.com/gods-own-valley-the-valley-of-flowers-part-i