NAGOYA & THE ONSEN EXPERIENCE đŸ«Ł

What is a visit to Japan without an Onsen experience? I had watched a few videos filmed in Sylvan forests that sequestered Onsens from prying eyes. With only verdant mountains as voyeurs, the bathers were seen larking about in their cossies. Wow! They seemed to have changed the meaning of forest bathing!

(This picture credit: Wiki Commons)

To be enjoying in a hot spring that’s known for its medicinal properties must be so cool! Naturally, I too was keen to experience it. Do stay till the end to know what happened.

After sighting Mt. Fuji, we proceeded to Nagoya, which happens to be home to my husband’s childhood friend, who had migrated to Japan some decades back.

We arrived in Nagoya on a cold sunny April day. This shipping & manufacturing hub with its soaring towers, seemed to be a stark contrast to the looming Fujiyama that had recently held us in its thrall.

Whitish-pink cherry blossoms on slender boughs ―cheery harbingers of spring, filled us with a frisson of delight.

In minutes, we met Mr. S, my husband’s friend, who had a plan for us. Although I was keen on finding an onsen, I had reserved this during my trip to Nagoya. With Mr. S’s able guidance, I was sure I’d find a lovely one, I had decided.

‘There’s a popular one right here in Nagoya’, said he.

‘Ok, do I need to carry anything?’ I asked casually.

‘Yes, a towel’, he replied.

‘Which person dives into a pool without a towel?’ I thought.

đŸ€”â€˜But I do have a towel’, said I.

Mr. S nevertheless decided to take us to a mall in Nagoya to get towels.

Looking straight ahead, he retorted, ‘It’s always better to carry a new towel’.

‘Isn’t mine immaculate?’, I thought aloud.

At the linen counter, ‘Please ask for towels meant for the Onsen’, he advised😐

I walked into the roomy mall that housed everything from dainty shoulder dusters to bed linen, artificial plants to crockery, cosmetics & everything in between. Stopping at the linen counter, I asked for onsen towels & was handed a small piece of soft rag that would have passed off as a kitchen rag.

‘This?? Isn’t this a kitchen rag’, I askedđŸ˜”

‘Well, in Japan we get these pretty Tengui, you know’, he quipped.

It was Lilliputian compared to my towel, which measured half the size of an Indian sari.

Nevertheless, we were famished & Mr. S drove us to Heiwa Park ―a sprawling garden, where he said we’d be lunching. Having cooked a sumptuous Indian meal himself, he brought out the dishes one by one & spread the fare on a tablecloth, which too was packed in his picnic basket.

While the rambling garden looked lush & mirthful with weekend picnickers picnicking, right opposite were denuded trees hedging clumps of concrete gravestones! We were going to enjoy a fete champetre right across a cemetery😳!

We had spotted several cemeteries near residences but dining al fresco in front of a graveyard would be a unique experience!

Thanks to Japan’s space constraints, the living & the dead ‘co-exist’ harmoniously!

Parked within were prams & cribs. Toddlers tottered about chasing butterflies & bees. Adults jested & relaxed & the whole park seemed incongruous with the sombre atmosphere right across.

The dead were mute spectators, spectating life enacted by humans who’d eventually join them.

I wondered if any among the departed might’ve once enjoyed a lazy afternoon brunch on the very lawns we were in & could be now wistfully reminiscing the time once spent.

Nevertheless, we devoured our grub & began exploring the place. Our first pause was at the cemetery; not exactly a thrilling place to start with, but given the proximity to where we had set up camp, we began with that.

Heaps of gravestones stacked on different rungs greeted us. Jizo statues ―protectors of the dead, lay interspersed.

It was customary for relatives paying a visit, to fill these buckets with water to libate the statues & tombstones. My son was about to use one when our friend forbade him from doing so, as this could invite the entry of an unrelated entity into our lives!

After some time, we left the saturnine scene in search of sanguinity.

We took a stroll & reached the woods.

The trail was steep but wooden logs served as steps & wooden palisades connected with cords ensured that we clung to them while hiking.

It wasn’t exactly picturesque but rambling around the woods inhaling salubrious air, was very relaxing.

At the heart, stood a placid lake lined with cherry blossom-laden trees. The vernal sun shone softly. Sighting the cherry blossoms in the park was what we had waited for, with bated breath.

Believe me, there’s something amply delightful about the graceful boughs carrying these feather-light blossoms!! So, we posed, we clicked & engaged in tree-hugging.

The rosy cherry blossoms against the silver skies made for a graceful colour combination ―like the carefree rouge of an ageing lady.

Shortly, the scene changed & the garden tapestry was suddenly filled with waxy snow-white blossoms. 

Snowflake-like petals lay scattered on the emerald-green turf.

The daedal hand of Nature had made it possible for little hands that couldn’t pluck ―to at least pick.

Sauntering about, we reached a pretty pond, where the setting Sun was taking a peek as if to preen itself before visiting a new land, for, the pond served as its mirror!

Our next halt was at Keikotennosha Shrine.

It was a quiet evening & we were the only people visiting. Hence, we had the entire temple to ourselves.

A flight of steps led to a graveled courtyard ―a quintessential feature of all Japanese shrines.

The place, though spartan & unornamented, was indeed very composing.

Right at the gateway was a plaque bearing the curtsy guidelines the Japanese follow while greeting. We took note. What if it came in handy?

The sanctum sanctorum was closed for the day but we paused & engaged in quiet contemplation.

The henotic ambiance was serenely hypnotic sans the hustle and bustle of touristy temples. So, we lingered longer.

The irimoya gabled roof with forks that form a X, is another architectural archetype of Japanese temples. If you noticed, all the temples have unalike roofs. This difference is another constant that I began to observe in Japanese temples.

As dusk dawned, the chill in the air forced us out. After picking up some pastries, my family dropped me at the onsen I was eager to explore.

I strode into this onsen confidently & merrily, waiting to dive into the hot springs.

A lady staff accorded me a warm welcome, smiling disarmingly and requesting that I leave my footwear behind. I obeyed willingly.

Some who had already done with the ritual, emerged wrapped in a towel ―refreshed, with their rubicund face reflecting the magic of the geyser.

The lady led me up to the first floor, which was meant for women & stretching her hand, politely requested that I hand over my phone. I was almost about to when I found a woman in her birthday suit!😰 She sashayed along the corridor ―nonchalant to my flabbergasted gaze! đŸ«š

Startled, I asked the staff if I’d get a towel. She escorted me to a locker with fresh towels & handed me one ―the size of my handkerchief! I unfurled it, anticipating perhaps some magic to unfold. The Japanese weave magic around everything, after all. Believing so, I jerked the towel but nothing happened. The lady smiled, nodding as if in agreement đŸ€—, God alone knows why!

‘No, not this. I’ve got one already. I want a towel’, I exclaimed.

Remember, English is Latin & Greek to the Japanese & during our stay in Tokyo & Mt. Fuji, we had communicated with the natives via Google Translator. However, the menfolk had dropped me here & along with them went my pocket-wifiđŸ„ș!

So, I gesticulated & drew a long rectangle in the air to mean a towel & repeated, ‘Towel, towel’.

The lady was keen to get my phone & pointed back at the towel, smiled & murmured in broken English, ‘Yes, towel, towel’.

Meanwhile, few more women emerged from the bath-chambers ―in the altogether! Now, I was quite alarmed, & gingerly asked the lady if I could check the pool. I wished to brace myself for what awaited. The kind lady obliged but not before taking away my phone. Without my phone, I felt more bare than the ladies I saw!

Inside, was the bath chamber where women were showering au naturel before taking the plunge!

‘Omg! What have I got myself into?’

I inched charily to inspect the actual hot spring pool & found women of all ages in their Adamite innocence! đŸ€„

A couple of old ladies perhaps septuagenarians stood without a stitch on & seemed to be exchanging pleasantries & discussing something casually ―like the way women would while comparing prices in a grocery shop! They remained impervious, natural & comfortable in their skin!!

Some ladies inside the pool assumed the meditative pose with closed eyes, in dhyaan mudra (chan/zen pose), joining their thumb & index finger & all in a state of nature!

There were mothers with little girls in tow! ‘What! Wouldn’t little girls ask curious questions?? I wondered.  

The lady staff was close behind & I pleaded with her, ‘Mam I want a bath towel because I want to wrap it around. Pleaaase
’ She understood my predicament but very courteously she smiled, and crossed her arms to indicate ‘noooo’, which appeared like a danger signalÂ đŸ™…â€â™€ïž

However, taking advantage of her politeness, I urged once more. ‘I’m not comfortable here. Can I bathe in my negligee?’

All I got was another round of arm-crossing (danger signal đŸ™…â€â™€ïž) & a gentle smile..â˜ș

Yet, not wanting to disappoint me, she ushered me to the reception on the floor & explained my dilemma to the staff. More ladies joined in & cordially crossing arms, unanimously pleaded with a ‘noooooo’. Was I disrobing them? Why were they pleading??đŸ€”

Honestly, their politeness bowled me over & I was now ridden with guilt for taking undue advantage of their kindness. So, I asked for my phone because I wanted to rush back. Very cautiously they handed it over. Omg! Now to negotiate for a wifi!! Thank God for small mercies… Wifi was a universal term.

I connected with my husband & implored, ‘Please take me from here, I cannot be here anymore!’

A panic-stricken hubby bellowed, ‘Why, what happened?? Are you ok??’

By then, the commotion of ‘nooos’ & ‘pleaase’ drew a bevy of women who were all in their birthday suits!🙄I was surrounded by them!

Even without plunging into the spring, I was already in hot water! I explained my quandary & pleaded with him to take me back.

Hubby: ‘It’s not possible now. You got to wait. We are quite far. It’ll take us an hour to come back & pick you up.’   

Meanwhile, Mr. S intervened, ‘Oh! Why should you feel uncomfortable? That’s customary in an onsen. Just make yourself comfortable. We’ll be there in an hour.’

An hour seemed fine & by then I felt a sudden surge of pluckiness. I went back to the pool area & the staff seemed relieved.

However, once again, I chickened out. A lady suggested that I visit the massage parlour. I did, but an hour would be too quick. I didn’t wish to breach the privacy of bathers; the weight of being voyeuristic was weighing me down. So, I waited at the reception while the staff smiled politely every now & then, trying to ease my sense of unease.

I suddenly recalled my trip to Manikaran in Himachal, famed for its hot springs. When I visited 17 years ago, I was appalled to see many people taking a dip in their bare minimum. It occurred to me that they too were trying to soak in the healing properties of the spring.

Much to my relief, my family arrived in less than an hour, and Mr. S was the first to intervene.

Mr. S, staring hard and wondering from which planet I was, exclaimed, ‘I thought you had done your research. Didn’t you know what to expect in an Onsen?’

Me: ‘I too thought I had. In all the sites & videos, they were
.’ I had to leave my sentence incomplete, for, suddenly, it dawned on me. How the hell would the real picture be shown on sites & videos??? đŸ«ą I clearly had missed some details!…

While Mr. S peered at my face with a silent ‘What big deal? You aren’t a bride!’

My thoughts, ‘What on earth were you doing, when I sought your advice? Why didn’t you inform me??’

He, in his head (as I perceived from his face): ‘How prudish could you be!’

Me, in mine: ‘Well, that’s me.’

At last, eager to break the ice & wanting him to know that I was reading his mind, I exclaimed, ‘I wasn’t comfortable. What if I met a familiar Indian whom I’d meet again sometime in the future?’

After an awkward pause, Mr. S spoke. ‘Nagoya isn’t as hyped as Tokyo or Osaka. Your chances of spotting a familiar face are less. You missed a golden opportunity. The hot spring has medicinal properties & hence, one must dive unclad. And we all go together; my son & I too. Not just that, even business conferences happen inside the Onsen! In fact, being nude bespeaks vulnerability & openness.’

Perceiving my bewildered expression, Mr. S continued, ‘In Apa Hotel where you’ll be checking in, there’s an Onsen. Don’t miss that. Just be yourself. Men aren’t allowed in the women’s bathing space & vice versa. Just be natural. It’s only we Indians who’re so Victorian’. 

My hubby seemed to be watching me closely with a, ‘You’re all bark & no bite!’😛

After settling in our room at Apa, my son headed for his Onsen because the hotel was lenient enough to permit him despite his tattoo. Most Onsens don’t permit tattooed tourists.

With a newfound eagerness after hearing Mr. S’s words, I was raring to try again.

I took the elevator to the top floor that housed the women’s onsen. There in the lobby, I found the friendly face of an Indian, who smiled at me while I was approaching. Relieved that someone would understand my language but simultaneously hoping she’d exit soon (her wet hair indicated that she was done with it) I tried my luck.

Me: ‘Hi, I’m new here. Tell me, is it ok to bathe with clothes on?’

She as if anticipating this question: ‘No, I don’t think so, but you could ask at the reception.’

I, wanting to warm up, briefed her about my evening’s experience.

She with a smile still in place (as if it’s her daily job): ‘All are women.  Just feel comfortable’

With the receptionist eyeing me indulgently, I approached her hoping for some concession. However, I was again met with the ‘danger’ sign of a deferential ‘Nooo’. The Japanese are trained to make people accept their ‘no’ with absolute thrill!

Once again, I surveyed the bathing pond. Indifferent to any judgment, were females of all sizes & ages ―comfortable in their skin. In fact, I was offended by their indifference!

Ah! Now, I can return with an excuse that the ladies were aloof. I returned to my room. Exhausted, I dived into my own tub. The hot water was sans any medicinal value but I could relax more. I remained in the tub, all the while meditating, until the hotness turned tepid. Perhaps one day I’d return with a renewed sense of insouciance & comfort.

PS: While most onsens would demand an up-front fee, this one at Nagoya was lenient & did not levy charges at the onset.

Comments

  1. T V Ramchandran

    I must admire your entire description of the Onsen experience. I guess Shashi Tharoor would be jealous ( not even envious)đŸ€ŁđŸ€ŁđŸ€ŁđŸ€ŁđŸ€ŁđŸ€Ł
    Otherwise.. what a lucid blog. Hat’s off to you for such a comprehensive blog( or should I say guide)!! Cheers 👍👍👍

    1. Shubhrata Shankar Iyer

      Oh! I’m thoroughly flattered â˜ș. Readers like you keep me going. Do stay tuned for more. Since you’ve visited the place, whatever I mention will resonate with you more, and that makes it more thrilling. It’s exciting to have someone understand the feel of a place and its peculiarities.

  2. Janaki Lskshminarayan

    An amusing yet an astonishing experience Shubhs. Even at my age I would have shunned from this Onsen experience.
    Good u had warned we indians from a funny and anxious experience.
    As usual u have taken on a virtual tour of Japan, esp., to Onsen.đŸ«Ł

    1. Shubhrata Shankar Iyer

      Haha! I wish someone had warned me too. Sadly, we did not opt for Ashiyu (foot bath). Had someone told me, we’d have indulged in that at least. By the way, even senior ladies are very comfortable & I don’t know whether to congratulate the Japanese for this feat or remain perplexed..

  3. Janaki Lskshminarayan

    It was indeed an amusing and intriguing writeup on the Onsen experience. I at my age too would have done the same thing Shubhs..
    It would have been an astonishing experience to u, ryt? To bathe in your skin in the presence of another human is unthinkable.
    I experience your embarrassment and anxiety.
    Tnx Shubhs for the virtual tour of Japan, esp., the Onsen experience.

  4. KP Ramachandran

    You must have had a wonderful time in and around Japan.
    Your passion to visit different places is remarkable.
    Sayonara

    1. Shubhrata Shankar Iyer

      ArigatođŸ™‡â€â™€ïž! Yes, we did enjoy every bit of the gorgeous country. Yes, somehow traveling to places is so thrilling & enjoying Nature’s beauteous bounties is certainly very very gratifying. I’m sure too will agree. That’s why I found, ‘Travel before you run out of time’, as an apt quote for the blog.

  5. Rajesh

    Excellent writing.Onsen experience almost Indians may feel the same.

    1. Shubhrata Shankar Iyer

      Hi yes, it was quite nightmarish & yet after returning from the trip, I did feel a tad disappointed too, for having missed the fun & relaxation. However, as you said, it’s not easy for us Indians😇

  6. Raje kaushik

    Brilliant cover. This is going to help me plan my upcoming visit to Japan in a big way. Thank you and keep sharing .

    1. Shubhrata Shankar Iyer

      Thank you for going through. I’m so glad that you will be able to refer to my travelogue while planning. And now you know what to expect too..

  7. Venkat Iyer

    Shubrata- First, let me confess, your English is impeccable with humour and substance. Have gone through most of your blogs and your description of the places visited, stands out with minutest details being considered.
    The “onsen” experience is well written with caution, innocence and the shyness well depicted. Though initially you were skeptical looking at the size of the towel, I thought you will take plunge seeing your breed of people- the young and the old having a great time in the hot spring!! However,you ended with an anticlimax as you could not get the opportunity of feeling the Onsen. Better luck next time, hope by then they change the rules for Indians to carry their “thund(towel)” along!😬👍😊

    1. Shubhrata Shankar Iyer

      Thank you so much for liking my work. I am a bit disappointed that I did not take the plunge. Yes, I do hope that they change the rules. When I visited Himachal’s hot springs many moons ago, I was quite appalled even though the women were in their bare minimum. But today I realized that they were really modest. Yet, it is an eye-opener too, for, perhaps this was the way of life in days of yore. Oh btw, on my next trip to Himachal, I think I will be more comfortable & less snootyâ˜ș

  8. Sangeetha

    This is a lovely blog, with some hilarious moments. I can safely say that years ago, my Manikaran experience was somewhat similar with my mom, and the majority of ladies, of all sizes, happily went au natural — much to my absolute shock. I was a child, all of ten years old, and yet I was overdressed.

    But it’s wonderful to read about the beautiful Snow White blossoms. Well done!

  9. Henry Fernandes

    Hi Shubs !!
    Very well articulated blog. The vivid discription of the picnic spots and cemetery made me almost feel as if I were there with you guys !! But I am lucky not be feel as if I were with you while reading the Onsen part đŸ€Ł Overall a lovely piece to read Shubs !!

    1. Shubhrata Shankar Iyer

      Haha! That’s a way of life there. There are many cemeteries & they abut residential buildings as well. It’s indeed surprising & nice to know that despite being a technologically advanced nation, they still have tradition in place & revere the dead. I shall be detailing some of their courteous ways & how they treat each other & their toilet culture in my upcoming posts. Do stay tuned..

  10. Deepa

    Great write up. Amazing experience you may have missed but it would have been better if they thought of Indian ways of the world too. Where we know what’s private and what’s personal.

    1. Shubhrata Shankar Iyer

      That’s also true. Though I wish they had been lenient with their rules, I’m sure I would not have still taken the plunge. That’s our culture..

  11. SN

    Well written. We Indians will feel awkward as we are not bought up that way.
    The write up on the way at cemetery and having lunch was well articulated.

    1. Shubhrata Shankar Iyer

      True that. I tried several times but failed. Space crunch has fostered a spirit of harmony, I guess😊 & has erased glaring discrepancies..

  12. Ramesh ( Mulund East)

    Hi
    Nice description of your visit to Nagoya
    and your ONSEN experience.
    The description of Whitish-Pink Cherry Blossoms, Cemeteries, Park, Wood, &
    Placid Lake lined with Cherry-blossom
    laden trees are all beautiful.
    The Picture of the Waxy Snow White blossom is superb.The steps leading to the Temple reminds me of Sabarimala Temple with similar steps.
    Some of the lines written in the blog are really professional namely

    The living and the deaf co-exist harmoniously
    The dead were mute spectators, spectating life enacted by humans who would eventually join them
    Indifferent females of all sizes and ages.

    Sad to note that your ONSEN experience was very bad. Same was with Massage Parlor, & Apa Hotel ONSEN also.
    It is unfortunate that you did not know the rules beforehand.Indian culture & tradition is unique and you cannot find the same in other countries.In India rules are allowed to be relaxed at times, but not so in Japan I believe.
    Next time , be bold & gather courage to
    dive into hotspring.
    On the whole a nice blog and enjoyed reading it.

    1. Shubhrata Shankar Iyer

      Wow! You have read every bitâ˜ș. I don’t think I’d still have the nerve to take the plunge even in the future😇. However, I wish next time (if at all), I’d get the whole onsen for myself. That’s also possible, of course for a steeper price. Some experiences in Japan are indeed unique..

  13. R.SHANKAR

    Beautiful experience . The Living and Dead Co exist . Sakura Flowers . Beautifully written . Very nice understanding and description of Nature . Better Luck next time Onsen Experience . It happens . Beautiful pictures . Very nice . Keep writing

    1. Shubhrata Shankar Iyer

      Next time….waiting for that. To not only revisit some places but also to visit the ones which we missedâ˜ș.

  14. Sarita Sitaraman

    Beautifully written as always Shubhs. The description of the garden experience in the vicinity of a cemetery, snow white flowers , the temple and the Onsen experience are impeccable. Your write up also describes the inhibitions that we have as Indians and how some experiences help us introspect.

    1. Shubhrata Shankar Iyer

      Thank you so much for going through it. The Japanese do coexist harmoniously with the dead. At every nook, you’d find a cemetery & a well-maintained one & without much ado, they co-exist peacefully. And of course, the dead don’t murder nor engage in other vices.

  15. Srinath

    A typical Indian Jugaad – might be we can request them to funnel the medicinal water to the tub in the bathroom – thar we have our privacy and reap the benefits of the medicinal water 😉

    1. Shubhrata Shankar Iyer

      đŸ€ŁThat’s exactly how I felt soaking in the tub! Even if one Indian were to be at the political level, he/she would have implemented your idea..😊

  16. Your content is always spot on, and this post is no different. Thank you!

  17. Thank you for this well-written blog post; it’s so valuable to learn from your expertise.

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